The Ultimate Cape Winelands Route: 15 Wine Farms Worth the Drive

Without going too deep into the history of SA wine, in a nutshell, the vines were brought by the French Huguenots. Fleeing France just after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV in 1685, some Protestant families came to South Africa and, more specifically, to the Cape of Good Hope, where they were given land north-east of Cape Town.

Amongst their belongings, they brought a few vine shoots and some acorns. As qualified winemakers and craftsmen, they did what they knew best: wine. The acorns were planted too; on the assumption they'd eventually have oak for barriques. The vines thrived. The oak trees didn't. The Cape's clement weather let the trees grow too quickly, producing too poor wood for wine storage. You'll still see oak trees all around the province, most of them hollow, and rotting from the inside.

To this day, the SA wine industry imports large quantities of oak barriques from Europe (mostly France) and the USA. Depending on the final taste, the winemaker will decide to use either French, or American oak.

The French Huguenots also left a mark on the Afrikaner community itself; many of them carry French surnames such as "Devilliers, Dutoit, Naudè, Blignault, Delange, Labuschagne, and others". Whether pronounced the SA way or the French way can be surprising. You'll find far more details in Franschhoek, (literally "the French corner"), either in the small Dutch Reformed church, with its magnificent wooden roof structure, or in the French Huguenot Museum.

In the last twenty-odd years, the SA wine industry has transformed, from mass production to producing very fine, often single-cultivar wines. Expect exquisite Chenin Blanc (SA's most widely planted vine), Viognier, Chardonnay, Shiraz, and the uniquely South African Pinotage, a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault.

The wine farms themselves have grown from small informal venues, where you'd taste a limited range of wines free of charge, to large commercial estates, with restaurants, arts & crafts galleries and more. No more free tasting our days, you'll pay a set fee per person, but it's definitely worth it.

Below are the wine areas, from the closest to the furthest, with a handful of properties in each area. This is a personal selection, not an exhaustive one, chosen for the site, the wines, the food, or a bit of everything.

Constantia, also known as the "small wine route" (15 min South)

Along the backdrop of Table Mountain, Constantia offers mostly white wines (thanks to the cool Atlantic breeze), though you'll also find red varietals such as Pinot Noir.

1. Groot Constantia

One of the oldest wine estates in SA, dating back more than three centuries. A beautiful Heritage domain, with a stunning view all the way to False Bay, a museum, and a couple of restaurants. 

Close by, there is also Klein Constantia, famous for its "Vin de Constance". This sweet, delicious wine is still sold today with the same style as it was back in the 18th century, when it was shipped to Napoleon during his exile on Saint Helena. Napoleon’s allotment in “vin de Constance” was of 30 bottles/month, together with the 30 bottles of SA wine/day. It is believed that Napoleon died of loneliness. Well, I tend to believe otherwise…

2. Constantia Glen

Gorgeous views over the vines, from Constantia Nek all the way down to the valley. Nice dining options and very decent wines. Booking essential.

3. Steenberg

A very modern style, set within a large private enclosed property, with two dining options: Bistro 1682, a very nice lunch and tapas spot, and The Tryn Restaurant, more upmarket. Excellent MCC (Méthode Cape Classic, our local Champagne, though best not to say that too loudly) and decent wines. Booking essential.

Durbanville (20 min north)

Durbanville has many wineries, but of them all, the very best is most certainly:

4. De Grendel

The view is sublime, and it improves after each glass. You'll face Table Mountain, plunging over Table Bay. The entire wine range is delectable, crafted for the past 17 years by renowned winemaker Charles Hopkins. Not to be missed. You can also book an open-vehicle game drive, as they have a few springboks (not the ones in green jerseys), grazing across the pond. Best organize a driver.

Somerset West (30 min south-east, via the N2)

5. Flagstone

If they'd wanted to hide themselves, they couldn't have done it any better. It sits within a large estate with little to no signage. But being part of Vin Archy, formed from the merger of Accolade Wines and Pernod Ricard's wine operations, one of the largest wine and spirits groups in the world, they still get excellent exposure. Flagstone offers a wide range of excellent wines. No food is served on site unless you're a member invited to one of their Food & Wine events.

6. Welgelegen

Known also for its beautiful rose garden and majestic centenary camphor and oak trees. Dining options range from a picnic to a full sit-down experience.

Stellenbosch (40 min east)

A small, young and vibrant inland town, home to the second largest university in the province. Rather conservative and mostly Afrikaans-speaking, with plenty to see, including a three-house museum showing the evolution of the homes over the past century or so. And, of course, plenty of wineries on the outskirts, each with its own character.

7. Spier

The first that comes to mind, simply because it has it all. It's on your way to Stellenbosch, off the R310. You can't miss it. A beautiful, well-maintained large domain with lawns, trees, a small stream and large boulders. The kids will love it (keep some change handy, just in case). A decent range of wines. We love the Block range, especially Block 2, 3 and 5, and they offer several wine pairing options. Watch it: there's only so many wines you can taste, and you'll still want to remember where you left the children before you've even reached Stellenbosch. A couple of eatery options, including a DIY picnic, best paired with a bottle from your tasting and some fresh cheese and bread. Booking essential.

8. Oldenburg

Situated at the bottom of a small dirt road, surrounded by what appears to be blue escarpments, with vines in between. Magic. Definitely more select and upmarket, with a small modern building and very large openings to the surroundings. The staff are knowledgeable, guaranteeing an enriching tasting experience, with bread and cheese shavings on offer. Well suited to couples or a small group of friends. Booking essential.

9. Vredenheim

Perfect for families with children of all ages. A few felines in cages, with regular viewing tours organized daily. If you don't like cages, there is the small farm, that lets children interact with farm animals. You can also taste and dine there, while the children run around the rose garden.

Paarl (40 min north-east, via the N1)

Nestled along Paarl Rock, an imposing monolith, and the site where the foundations of the Afrikaans language were laid.

10. Fairview

A heritage site offering a large range of wines sourced from various farms in the area. A small shop with locally fresh products, cheese, bread, olive oil and pickles, plus a restaurant, lets you sustain yourself after a tasting, standard or formal. They keep goats and even a ram outside the main entrance; you'll smell them before you see them. Fairview once poked fun at the French with wine names like Goat Rotie (Côte-Rôtie) and Goat da Roam (Côtes du Rhône). The French took them to court over it and lost. The joke landed so well locally that a follow-up label appeared not long after. Lesson learnt.

11. The Spice Route

Has it all: a magnificent view all the way to Table Mountain, the wines, a brewery, a Grapperia, various dining options, arts and crafts, and even playgrounds for children. Note that both Fairview and The Spice Route get extremely busy in high season.

Franschhoek (60 min east)

About an hour's drive. In South Africa you can generally enter most properties simply to enjoy the site, the view or the building. Don't be shy.

Arriving from the south, via the R310:

12. Delaire Graaf

A manicured garden. Just the entrance is a delight, and the landscaping is breathtaking. Once you see all the Dylan Lewis bronze sculptures scattered throughout, you'll understand there's little budget concern here. The view is gorgeous, with a couple of dining options to choose from.

13. Boschendal

A vast property with heritage Dutch-style buildings, an immense vegetable garden, two restaurants and other dining options including an onsite picnic, a very inviting deli (avoid going just before lunch, you'll want to buy everything), even a butchery, not to forget the wine tasting. It gets very busy in high season, but the domain is large enough that you won't really notice.

Arriving from the north, via the R45:

14. Vrede en Lust

Interesting wines, tasted either on the terrace facing the vines or inside. Most of the attractions here are restricted to in-house guests. Their bistro serves fresh decent food.

15. Haute Cabriere

Towards the Franschhoek Pass Road. The food is very good, served on a covered, air-conditioned terrace facing the valley, with a stunning view. They also have an inside tasting and bar area, and an interesting cellar.

Note : it's advisable to book in advance for most of these places.

Since there's only so many wines you can decently taste in a day, you'll want to pick one or maybe two estates for a proper tasting. If more than one person in your party wants to taste freely, it's worth arranging a driver for a safe and enjoyable day out.